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Shipping Methods business days Minimum 10 business days. To quote from The Seed Starter's Handbook by Nancy Bubel Rodale Press, : "Plants grown indoors in warm rooms put on weak, spindly, sappy growth that is difficult to manage. Start seeds warm and grow seedlings cool. Lastly, Starting from Seed by Karan Davis Cutler Brooklyn Botanic Garden, says: "Since both heat and light fuel plant growth, the relationship between the two is critical.
A common mistake among home gardeners is to keep plants at too high a temperature for the amount of light they receive. What often happens is that the gardener tries to compensate for slow growth with more fertilizer and higher temperatures. The result is limp, leggy seedlings that are hard put to cope with outdoor conditions. On cloudy days, the experienced gardener lowers the temperature to compensate for the lower light levels. While every plant has a temperature range it likes best, within that range, the cooler you keep the temperature, the better off the plant will be.
Do not take things too far, though. A combination of low temperature, low light and overwatering is ideal for the development of damping-off fungus. We have a new house that we have to landscape around. The biggest problem is that we have to be careful what we plan due to the septic system. It is an evaporation system, with two huge cement tanks buried under the ground in the front of the house and plastic pipes running through the side yard. We are planting grass in a rectangle right above the biggest bunch of the plastic pipes, but what can go around it or by the cement tanks that will not grow long roots and dig into it?
In looking at the planting information on the packages and in my Western Garden Book, nothing seems to mention root depth. This column deals with some of the basics. A new brochure from Washington Sea Grant called: Landscaping your Septic System, offers considerable detail on the subject and provided much of this material.
Keep all construction away from these areas. Understanding the functioning of the system is vital. Get information. Some of it is available in video form. The drainfield will not work well if overloaded with extra surface water, so be certain that it is not in the path of downspout run off or irrigation systems. Avoid surrounding it with tall trees.
Some shade is fine, but you would not plant an oak on the edge of a drainfield. Set up some barriers so that it is not compacted by frequent foot traffic. Occasional mowing or moving through the field to check the system is certainly fine, but you do not want the drainfield in the middle of a heavily used path.
Plants do help provide oxygen exchange and contribute to evaporation necessary in the drainfield area. Choose plants with shallow, non-invasive roots. You do not want breakage or damage in pipes from root intrusions. Lawn can be attractive. Do not overload the system by watering it a lot.
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Meadow grasses or a mixture of turf grasses like perennial rye and some broadleaf flowers such as yarrow can also look good and require little maintenance. Several mixes sold as Eco-Turf or Fleur de Lawn have these components. Very tall grasses like Stipa gigantea are not appropriate. Avoid over-active plants like English ivy Hedera helix , which is becoming a menace in forested areas by moving in and stifling trees. Vegetable gardening requires frequent cultivation, and digging in the drainfield area is inadvisable.
Also, the brochure notes that: Sewage effluent is distributed through the soil in the drainfield area. Any root vegetables planted in this area may be directly exposed to septic tank effluent. Some, such as bugle weed Ajuga reptans and vinca Vinca minor grow vigorously and would fill in quickly. The native kinnickinnick Arctostaphylos uva-ursi grows well in full sun but is slow to establish.
A mulch around the plants may help with weed control while the plants spread.
Keep landscaping simple and straightforward, remembering that the object is the good performance of the system. To get more information on septic systems, contact your local health department. Keywords: Capsicum , Plant care. For the past several years, I have tried to grow green peppers in our garden. The problem I have had is that they never grow very big, and the peppers never get much bigger than a small plum. I fertilize my garden, add compost, but still get small peppers.
Peppers are tricky in our climate. Quoting from Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades by Steve Solomon: These heat-loving plants do not readily adapt to climatic conditions north of the Yoncalla Valley.. Many gardeners make the mistake of setting peppers out at the same time as tomatoes right after there is no frost danger. This, however, will almost certainly expose them to overnight temperatures of 45 F or even worse.
Any surprisingly cool night during June can shock peppers sufficiently to stop their growth for a time. North of Longview, Washington, and along the coast, only the hardiest pepper varieties will grow in cloches or greenhouses.
Solomon, , p. I would like to know if there is some place where I can have my vegetable garden soil tested. For the last two years my vegetable plants were abysmal except for tomatoes and lettuce. If there is an area that you suspect to have problems, test this soil separately. You are getting the average of the soil in your garden bed.
Do not dry in oven, on radiator or in microwave! A WSU has a publication on soil testing for vegetable crops but it is mainly for agricultural growers. Another option is the University of Massachusetts, Amherst soil testing laboratory. This page has information and forms to send in with your samples.
What are the disadvantages of using white vinegar to lower the pH in my hydroponic system?
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I have read that I should use phosphoric acid. But I have also read that phosphoric acid could be bad for hydroponic systems with hard water.
I am using well water with a starting pH just below 8. I also heard that nitric acid would be good for hard water but that the acid may be to aggressive for most novice users. Here is general information on growing hydroponically from Virginia Cooperative Extension: Hydroponically grown plants must obtain all their nutrients, including trace elements, from the nutrient solution.
Success or failure may depend on precise and complete fertilizing practices. Complete nutrient solutions, specifically made for hydroponics, take the guesswork and the mess out of mixing one's own formulas. All hydroponic nutrient solutions must be changed after a short period since evaporation causes concentration of salts in the water. Adding fresh solution to old solution would only make things worse. During spring and summer, pour spent nutrient solution around trees and shrubs.
Here is information from www. This link to Texas Agricultural Extension Service addresses growing vegetables hydroponically, and offers details about nutrient solutions: The book, Home Hydroponics Since you are using well water, you would need to contact the State Water Board here is a link to Department of Ecology's Water Resources page. If the total amount of dissolved salts in your water is less than ppm, the water should present no problem.
This same resource says that a pH of 5. Since your pH is alkaline, you will need to acidify the solution. For adjusting a few gallons of solution, two regular aspirin per gallon of water will lower a pH of 8. You can use a teaspoon of white vinegar per gallon as an alternative method. In a large sytem, this book recommends using sulphuric acid, but protect yourself from acid splashes and always pour the acid into the water and not the water into the acid.
The book Hydroponics for the Home Gardener by Stewart Kenyon Key Porter Books, , confirms the above, but remarks that vinegar is only a temporary measure and its effects will not hold for more than a few days. The author recommends using phosphoric acid, which he says is nearly harmless--just be sure to wash any spills off yourself right away with baking soda and water.
If you add 0. Keywords: Tomatoes--Care and maintenance.